Clos Marey‑Monge: savoir-faire, terroir and innovation (and a welcome break from it all)
Being invited to sample fine biodynamic pinot noirs is always a treat, but in today’s (ab)normal times, it’s double the excitement and pleasure. Not least because it allows one to leave the hellhole that was once their home and shut the door on the creatures still lurking there after nearly four months of confinement, semi-feral, dirty and playing Fornite round the clock in the dark corners of a now desolate place….
So, when Clementine Communication invited me to a socially distanced wine tasting session by Château de Pommard, I, of course, was too happy to oblige. And the experience did not disappoint.
Upon learning that Michael Baum, the owner of the Château, was once an enfant terrible of Silicon Valley, it all starts to make sense. The innovation, the disruption, the risk-taking – as well as the compulsive attention to detail…These are becoming hallmarks of this relatively new player. Relatively because the Burgundy domaine was founded in 1726.
However, the serial investor only bought the estate with wife Julie Carabello in 2014 with a vision to turn it into organic and biodynamic farming and winemaking, and a mission to create exceptional cuvées.
Sitting right at the heart of Château de Pommard, Clos Marey‑Monge is circled by a two-metre high 19th-century stone wall. Yet out of those 20 hectares, Baum and winemakers Emmanuel Sala and Eric Pignal have managed to create six cuvees of magnificent Pinot Noir from very distinct terroirs (Simone, Chantrerie, Nicolas-Joseph, Grands Esprits, 75 Rangs, and Micault). Clos Marey-Monge Monopole is Chateau de Pommard’s signature wine: a blend of the six cuvees aforementioned.
While we won’t bore you with all the technical details (Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2018 displays abright ruby colour and purple undertones, notes of dried flowers, fresh roses, and black fruit, highlighted by iodine/saline, a finely peppery note etc.), just remember one thing: it is damn good – powerful yet complex, with the right amount of freshness. It was hard to abide with the etiquette of wine tasting and not down the beautifully made (and custom-designed) bottle in one go. Although we might have: can’t remember.
“Winters are harsh and cold. Summers are very hot. We get just the right amount of rain,” explained, dryly, Emmanuel, the head winemaker. Sounds simple but finding the right way to work with nature implies there is a lot of hard work going on there. Watch this space: it may feel new, but Château de Pommard is already displaying very high levels of maturity.